No photoshoot production was required in the making of the last issu of the last number of Vogue Italia. What is a fashion magazine without photoshoots? Without those glossy images of models, photographed in glamorous locales and produced by a small army of hairstylists, makeup artists, editors, and assistants?
It’s a more environmentally friendly magazine, for one. Or so says Italian Vogue, which aims to make a statement about sustainability this month by omitting photo shoots.
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In his January 2020 note to readers, Emanuele Farneti, the editor in chief, described what it takes to fill one issue of his magazine (in this example, the traditionally thick September issue) with original photographs:
“One hundred and fifty people involved. About twenty flights and a dozen or so train journeys. Forty cars on standby. Sixty international deliveries. Lights switched on for at least ten hours nonstop, partly powered by gasoline-fuelled generators. Food waste from the catering services. Plastic to wrap the garments. Electricity to recharge phones, cameras …”
Owning up to this pollution was important to Mr. Farneti, particularly after he and the 25 other international Vogue editors made a pledge in December to help “preserve our planet for future generations” and show respect “for our natural environment.”
A cover by Cassi Manoda
These are not unusual declarations, given the fashion industry’s obsession with projecting sustainability. But “declarations are not enough,” Mr. Farneti said in an interview.
“It’s very important that you actually act,” he said.
For her cover, the Italian multimedia artist Vanessa Beecroft presented a figure hunched over, as if trying to contort her body to fit the confines of the magazine cover. Ms. Beecroft, a frequent Kanye West collaborator of late, said the cover is her first illustrated fashion project.
Milo Manara’s cover
The erotic comic artist Milo Manara’s lingerie-clad model, Olivia Vinten, wears red latex gloves and wields a black leather whip, posing in front of dreamy pastel clouds. Mr. Farneti said there was some debate whether it was fitting “to bring back eroticism on the cover of a women’s magazine” in this era of women’s empowerment.
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